Ang Kak Seong (known as Uncle Seong), the man behind the famous Air Itam asam laksa, passed away at 77, leaving behind a legacy that defined Penang’s culinary culture. Uncle Seong’s asam laksa stall at the foot of Kek Lok Si Temple had been a favorite among his loyal fans over the years, attracting both locals and tourists.
Laksa journey began in 1955
Air Itam assemblyman Ng Soon Siang expressed his condolences over the passing of Uncle Seong on Facebook, stating, “The passing of Kak Seong is a significant loss to our community. Many of us would miss seeing him at his stall ladling hot bowls of laksa.”
Uncle Seong’s culinary journey started in 1955 when he took over the laksa stall at Air Itam Market, which was a family business spanning over six decades.
Over the years, the bowl of asam laksa, which was rich in fish broth, tamarind flavors, herbs, and thick rice noodles, had become a cultural icon that attracted many locals and travelers to the stall for its unique taste.
In 2020, his stall gained international acclaim when Penang asam laksa was featured on CNN’s World’s 50 Best Foods list, helping shine a global spotlight on Penang’s hawker heritage.
According to Malay Mail, in May 2021, Uncle Seong announced the stall was closing after 66 years of operations due to the severe impact of the COVID‑19 pandemic and ongoing harassment from debt collectors pursuing loans taken out by his estranged son.
He said dwindling business and financial strain forced the difficult decision to stop serving, and although he expressed gratitude to loyal customers and supporters, he hoped to take a break and possibly restart the stall in the future.
However, it later reopened in December 2021 after a six-month closure.
Legacy remembered among Penangites
For many, Uncle Seong was more than a hawker, he was a cultural icon whose stall represented Penang’s rich culinary heritage.
His legacy lives on in every spoonful of Penang’s famous Air Itam Laksa, in every memory, and in every tale shared by those who waited for hours just to feel connected to his laksa.
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